|AZALEAS, CAMELLIAS, & RHODODENDRONS
| Light and
It is best to plant Azaleas, Camellias,
and Rhododendrons in a shady location. A north or east side of a house, and/or
under a tree with filtered shade is good. Morning sun is recommended because
afternoon sun causes burning on the leaves. Deciduous Azaleas tolerate more
Good drainage is key, with consistent regular watering. To prevent
root damage, do not cultivate under the plants. Each Fall lightly mulch the
plants with E.B. Stone Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Planting Mix. This
helps protect roots from cool winter nights and the high summer temperatures.
Camellias and Rhododendrons we recommend an application of Master Nursery
Azalea, Camellia, Gardenia Food or E.B. Stone Azalea, Camellia, Gardenia
Food once after bloom, once early Summer (June), and once in early Fall
(September). If you prefer to use a liquid fertilizer, we recommend using
Master Nursery Acid Plant Food monthly March - September. Fertilize with
Master Bloom 0-10-10 to enhance bud & bloom & GreenAll
F.S.T.(iron, sulfur, manganese, and zinc supplement) monthly October
through December. Gardenias may benefit from more frequent fertilizing.
Fertilize monthly from March thru September. Use Master Bloom 0-10-10 &
F.S.T. once in November, and then once again in January.
Generally, you should prune azaleas,
camellias, and rhododendrons only after your plants bloom. Early pruning can
result in loss of future blooms for the season. Remove spent flowers to keep
plants and surrounding area clean and free from disease.
Some of the more common insects are aphids,
scales, thrips, mites, and lace bug. If you see a trail of ants going up your
shrub, you probably have aphids or scale as well. Another indication of these
insects is a sticky residue on the leaves. Most of the insects will be found on
the backside of the leaves. Scales may be found along the branches as well and
will look like bumps along the limbs. Scale can be white, black, or brown.
These insects are seen most often in the Spring and Fall, but can be a problem
at any time of the year. For control of these insects, you can use Master
Nursery Horticultural Oil, Malathion, or Monterey Take Down.
Yellow leaves can be a result of several things. It could
be a result of lack of fertilizer and minerals, a watering problem, or insect
damage. When diagnosing a problem, take into account how often you water, when
and how often you fertilize, and when the last time you inspected your plant
for insects. If the older leaves are turning yellow and the other leaves are a
pale green, then you may need to add nitrogen. If the leaves are yellowing, but
the veins on the leaves are green, then your shrub most likely needs iron. If
the outer leaves are yellowing and some of the branches are dying back, the
shrub may be getting too much water. Inspect the soil to see how moist the soil
is. Leaves that are being damaged by insects will also turn yellow. Inspect the
leaves, especially the backside of the leaves to look for insects. Lace bugs
are hard to detect, the damage they cause can turn the leaf white.
Mid City Nursery, Inc
|This site was created and is maintained by Mid City Nursery, Inc.
© 1998 - 2012
Canyon, CA 94503